So every time I read articles on ECU manipulation, I run into the question of increased exhaust gas temperature. An EGT gauge is essential when making modifications to the mix. When you lean the mix the EGT increases then the addition of HHO reduced the lean burn condition lowering the EGT.

So I bought one it. it will be here soon.

The problem in my head was always:
1. I didn't want to drill my exhaust to install the probe.
2. I didn't want to spend an arm & a leg
3. The ones I kept seeing were those "tuner' LED gauges.
4. Where do I install the gauge (I shudda bought a triple pod) my OEM-OCD is in full tilt
Well I guess I will have to deal with issue 1
The one I bought cost me $55 so issue 2 is no prob
Issue 3 I will deal with because of price.
Issue 4? I will figure that out.

I would have preferred to install an aeronautical unit like an AMS or Alcor but $600 bucks is riduculous.


Installing the gauge & making it look like like its a factory install?...that will me MY nightmare!

OK
I'm DONE. Everything is installed & running.
BTW Setting up the EFIE is such a PITA!!!
I set my sensors at 375mv (yeah ok)
My Trac went berserk! It threw 3 codes and the main problem I felt on my 1st test drive was
my transmission wouldn't shift on time.
Also waiting to turn at a stop sign, my truck kept lurching to go.
So, I went back home and reset the sensors to 315mv...took it for a test drive. Everything felt good.
Took it for a ride I do every day. (the ride to take my son to taekwondo).
I kept the same speed same route same driving conditions. Usually on a round trip the average mpg reads about 15.4 mpg.
My round trip average mpg was 19.9 mpg. that's 30% improvement. Of course this by no means is conclusive, and there has to be a lot more driving to get a more accurate reading but it looks promising.

My PWM is a POS. The little unit is not robust enough to handle this kind of use on a ling term basis. The power connections are made to the board using blade connectors. These loosen over time under heat.


But I bought a new one to replace it. Avoid the same mistake. My new one cost me $60. plus shipping.


Now starts the tweaking of the EFIE to find the perfect setting.

More Wiring

Did some more wiring yesterday. I think I'll pass on installing the MAF enhancer for now. I'll see how the EFIE alone works out. I tested the components as I went along, the solenoid activated on queue & fired up the circulating pump. I now have to connect the solenoid to switched power to activate the solenoid & spice the gauge lights into a wire that dims them. Then cut in & set the EFIE.


Kinda looks like my previous post picture doesn't it? Almost. This picture shows the addition of the PWM adjustment. It's a subtle detail, almost invisible to the eye.

HHO Guages

Well the hard stuff is almost done.
Today I took 7 hours to install the PWM, run most of the power & ground wires through the firewall, install & wire the gauges & install the gauge pod.

I still have some incidental wiring to do. The MAF enhancer has to be run as well.

The Installation Begins!

Well today I started the tedious work of wiring the system.
I bench tested all of the electrical component to make sure I
don't have any preventable failures. It all works.
As you can see, true to my word,
this system will look as OEM as I can make it. I may even
make a plastic shroud to cover the generator/bubbler area.
Here's an overall shot of the guts of the system.


Of course, as always there are gremlins. I found that my bubbler had a leak as well.
(like I need hydrogen gas leaking in my engine compartment) I broke it down and rebuilt it.
I added plastic seals to the barbs with some rubber gaskets.
After the refit, it now holds 5 psi like the reservoir does. It may hold more but
I stopped a 5 psi


Here's a shot of the reservoir and the pump on the driver's side.


Looking down at the HHO Generator, its all plumbed & the 6 awg wires have been attached &
covered with plastic wire casing. The biggest PITA is soldering all the electrical connections and shrink wrapping the ends.


Here's my brass flashback arrestor ( one of 3). That zip tie on top has got to go!!


Finally The Solenoid. I decided to use a continuous use solenoid rated at 80 amp instead of a plastic relay.


But to protect the system I opted to use a resettable 45 amp circuit breaker.
I will still install an inline fuse cuz I don't trust anything. (there it is hiding in the corner)

Drip in the Reservoir

So being a stickler for details, today I decided to do a leak test on the liquid system of my install.
Figuring that in case of a leak it's easier to deal with water instead of KOH. I thought is may be possible for a clamp to need tightening. So I fill the reservoir with distilled water, I prime the pump and fire her up.

She is pumping nicely. As I am looking at all the clamps I notice a leak from the bottom of the reservoir. I tighten the clamp on the barb & it's still drips once every 8 seconds. I unbolt the reservoir & wouldn't you know it, the ONLY part I actually bought was leaking...the reservoir!
I never bothered to test if the barbs were sealed to the tank properly. I guess quality control lacks from some suppliers!

So I pulled the tank & put Weldon 16 (an industrial plastics adhesive) then when it cures I will silicon around all 3 barbs just to make sure they seal.

I'll check it tomorrow to make sure they are water tight.

I guess the bright side is the unit wasn't filled with my 28% KOH solution!

Rule of thumb...test & inspect EVERYTHING before installing, assume NOTHING!

The PAINTED Gauge Pod

The Gauge Pod

Here's The basic unpainted shell. I used Classic Coat to paint it medium praire tan to match my interior.

This is the paint. It's a flexible paint made specifically for interior parts. Prep was easy. I sanded the pod with 120 grit sandpaper then cleaned it up with plain rubbing alcohol before painting.

An there it is! I gave it 2 coats of paint waiting 15 minutes between coats. I'll leave it hanging here for a few days in the heat of the barn to "bake it".