Life's little sidetracks

I have had to set aside my HHO projects as I have been occupied with "home maintenance" Painting, fixing, & improving. I should be back to this soon enough. By the summer I plan to add other green projects to my blog & site as I add Solar & wind turbine projects.

The "LAB"

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Well, I finally moved the HHO stuff from the garage to the "LAB"... ok it's a 20' x 12' shed in my yard which now has 220v power & heat. I should be able to bench test my setup and get some output figures.

The Gauge Pod

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I picked up this From Ebay for $19.99. It was for a 93 to 2002 Ford Ranger. Since the Ranger & the Explorer Sport Trac share the same dash, I figure they might share the same A-Pillar... I was right! The Sport Trac has very limited interior space to install auxilary gauges. This was a good setup, and it's reversable!!!
I was directed to a few companies that make the paint to match my medium praire tan interior so I will match this & it will blend right in.

I haven't forgotten

I suppose you have been wondering "wazzzup?"

Well...

The project is still on. I have a few things going on right now like:
Remodelling the kitchen
Painting the house
Installing new light fixtures
Putting in new faucets
And other general "Honey Dew" list items.
I am hoping to get back to this soon.
I am still buying "stuff" for the truck and I will post them in a bit.
HHO Sporttrac

The MAF Enhancer

This is what sends information in voltage to your ECU (computer). Some vehicles send frequency. You will have to refer to your service manual. on my Ford 4.0 it's voltage only. This unit will not work for frequecy MAF sensors

This is the "birds nest" wiring. All the components for this were available in Radio Shack. I placed the arrangement in a project box for now but I think in the end I will do a custom install in the dash or the console. All it will take is to drill 5 holes in total.

This BLUE with the RED stripe wire is the MAF sensor wire to the ECU. FORD ONLY. This is the wire you need to cut. I have no idea what wire you need to cut on anything else. I suggest you refer to your car's service manual.

Make your connection by cutting off the MAF to ECU wire and connecting the Yellow wire from your enhancer going to the MAF. The Black wire from your enhancer will connect to the other end of the wire (that you just cut) that is still connected to the ECU.
The Green wire is for ground. Note: You only cut one wire under your hood.
Mount your enhancer on the dash, or console. Your car is now wired and ready to go.
The White Wire is used as a manual shut-off for your generator; this wire is used as a ground when you connect it to a relay that is wired to the pin #85 on
relay. When you switch from Hybrid to Factory your MAF will return to factory settings and your generator will shut off.

This is the basic hookup to the HHO system in your car.

HHO Gas Liter Flow Meter

Another delivery today!
This is actually an oxygen meter. It is a small, lightweight device that can be used to quickly verify the flow of HHO gas. It reads 0-8 liters per minute by just attaching the 1/4" supply line to the bottom and holding in the upright vertical position and locating the center of the ball.
This is a great way to verify your HHO output for under $20 and is less bulky than using the homemade bottle method.

O2 Sensor Extender

These just came in today for the project. They are 18mm stainless steel adaptor custom made to space out the front O2 sensor so it detects less exhaust flows and will lean the Air Fuel Ratio.
Running a HYDROGEN HHO generator in the car, without this extender, you'll get a check engine light which will cost you more money on gas, you need this part so the car still thinks it's reading proper exhaust flow. It's basically a simple adaptor to space out the O2 sensor to elminate check engine light due to added flows by the HYDROGEN HHO generator.
One piece design will seal the exhaust pipe without using any washer and will not leak

This is what they look like installed on the O2 sensor. Depending on the car is shouldn't be more than a 10 minute installation. You only need to install these on the O2 sensors after the manifolds. The O2 sensors after the catalytic converters are there to monitor results not make adjustments at the ECU.

The Bench Reservoir

I needed a sturdy reservoir for testing my HHO generators before they get installed on the cars.
Here's the "How To" video


At first, I decided on using a glass tea jar I had lying around. but I opted to use a tough plastic one in case of a flashback.
In the event of a flashback that would cause and explosion, I don't want glass shard flying everywhere!

Flame Arrestor

This is a must have for all HHO Hydrogen Generator. This unit stops all flashback from getting to your generator. This is a good extra safety precaution. Low cost insurance to protect your system. I have posted a quick "how to" video on my You Tube.




All tubes are threaded brass as are the fittings. Both ends have stainless steel screens and packed solid of fine bronze wool., and threads have Rectorseal 5 sealant not Teflon tape.

PWM (ver2)

Basically it's the same internal components as the PWM Cluster Box only a bit more compact and asthetically pleasing.
Another quick Video.

This box was made for my wife's car. In her car I will go more the OEM look. The gauges will be installed either in the dashboard or in pods on the A- pillar.

This is the dimensional drawing for building the PWM enclosure.

PWM Gauge Cluster

I finally got around to putting the cluster together. The PWM adjustment knob is at the lower left. Basically all the components were put into a Radio Shack project box. It works like a dream.

Here is a quick video

It shows the guts and the wiring. I used 8 & 10 AWG wire.

Unfortunately, all I had was red.

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This is the wiring diagram for the PWM with both the volt meter & the ammeter incorporated in it. This configuration will allow monitoring of the adjusted voltage being sent to the generator as well as the amount of amps the generator draws. By using a PWM you can make a heavy (28%) concentration of KOH electrolyte without drawing amperage which would normally fry your HHO generator.

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Pulse Width Modulator (PWM)

This is the completed PWM. It controls the amperage that the HHO generator will draw. Voltage is modulated as a series of pulses which results in a sine-like flux density waveform in the magnetic circuit of an electromagnetic actuator. The smoothness of the resultant waveform can be controlled by the width and number of modulated impulses per given cycle.

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By using this I can make a 10:1 electrolyte which as is would draw enormous amounts of amps, but I can now control just how much the HHO generator will get from my alternator.

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This is really not hard to build. You can get all the components at Radio Shack. All the schematics are included here. You can also buy a PWM like this for around $30. In retrospect, I have seen other PWMs which are far superior for about $120. Should this one fail in the future I think I will go that route.

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PWM (Pulse-Width Modulation) for controlling DC loads. This is the basic connections to the HHO generator.


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Fan Cooled 30 AMP PWM
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS: Power supply 12/24 VDC via. jumper Load voltage 12/24 VDC 30A max Output: Output frequency : 100Hz. This will adjust the DC output range from 0% to 100% Board size is 3.9"L x 1.7" W x 1.6"H Fan is for a 12V systems

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Electrical Gauges

Amp Meter
I found a nice Centech 50 amp ammeter at Harbor Freight for $5.99
2-1/4" diameter bezel, 2-3/64" case.

Volt Meter
I also found a Centech volt meter at Harbor Freight for $5.99. It measures from 8 to 16 volts and has the same 2-1/4" diameter bezel, 2-3/64" case.
So both gauges for under $12 bucks!

The Water Pump

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This is a small 1GPM pump to help circulate the electrolyte. The system doesn't really need it but this gives me options as to where to locate the reservoir and the HHO generator since the system will no longer be gravity fed. Without the pump I would have to install the output of the reservoir slightly higher than the HHO Generator input.

The Dry Cell

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This is a much more cleaner & compact design. Designed and constructed from plates that are Precision cut 3" X 7" Corrosion Resistant High Moly Stainless Steel. The plates are cross hatch and rotary sanded to promote bubble release and then cleansed in an Ultrasonic cleaner at 40,000 Hz leaving them microscopically clean. The plates are sealed between high temperature 1/16" thick EPDM gaskets. No inferior automotive grade gaskets used. The end plates are manufactured from 1/2" high grade, high temperature Cast Acrylic. The end plates measure only 4-3/16" X 7-3/4" so the unit will fit anywhere. They are held in place with 1/4" X 20 Zink plated bolts. This cell has a configuration of

-NNNN+NNNN-NNNN+NNNN-

It is rated at a conservative 15 to 30 Amp's. At those amperages a Cell that will run without overheating. It won't melt wires or boil the Electrolyte Solution. It also won't overload your alternator.

The Wet Cell

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This is the original wet cell. It produced a nice amount of gas. It it very big and heavy. As you can see the original wiring had 12 volts going to each cell. Way to much amperage. This cell was rewired to a configuration of:

+NNNNNNNNNNNN-

Although it worked ok, it is bug & bulky. Very hard to work with. I will probably use it in an HHO Torch.